The remote control included with the fan has a very cheap feel to it and it seems excessively big. It doesn't always work very well for me. The instructions include the somewhat disconcerting warning that if you aren't going to use the remote for a while, you should take out the battery so that excess heat doesn't damage it. Huh? I would recommend getting the wall switch (TW32WH), even though it's pretty bad too (I'm reviewing that one next).
The "satin nickel" finish is a spray painted coating, and the paint is very delicate and extremely easy to scratch during assembly. It's not a very convincing finish; I've installed the fan on a 12 foot ceiling and you can easily see that it's just painted gray.
Overall it's a nice fan; I think the technology is great but given the price I'm disappointed in some of the bits of cheapness that crept in.
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This is one of Fanimation's DC-motor fans, which means:1. Very high efficiency (30W max fan motor draw, which of course excludes power draw from lights)
2. 6 speeds forward and reverse
3. Remote control reverse
4. Receiver automatic channel RF configuration (all of the RF signal calibration is via the remote dip switches, which is especially useful if you have more than one RF-controlled fan)
5. Essentially zero motor noise/no vibration-if installed properly (which is not difficult)
We have four DC-motor Fanimation fans in our condo, including this model. All of our fans are installed on metal 4x4 fan-rated junction boxes. Fanimation makes installs quite easy if you're moderately handy and have a sufficiently tall ladder (we have 9 foot ceilings and I'm 5'9", and for a good part of the install, needed about 4" more height than our 3' step ladder provided). Depending on how your junction box and the surrounding drywall is configured, you may need to either cut away more drywall or shim the fan bracket with steel washers/bolts to ensure that you have continuous contact between the fan bracket and your junction box mount.
All four of our Fanimation fans came with braided steel safety cables. From what I understand, these are not required in the US for residential fans, but are needed for (a) industrial fans (which generally cannot be installed in residences unless certain criteria are met) and (b) residential fans in Canada. Of course, you can follow the instructions and install the cable, but be warned that you do need to find a wood joist, drill a 1/4" pilot, and then use a socket wrench to drive the lag bolt into the ceiling. If you don't have experience doing all of these tasks, you may wish to practice on some scrap wood, as it isn't the easiest thing to get right on the first shot, much less when working overhead. Furthermore, even when installed properly, you'll be left with a large washer + bolt and a thin cable running some distance from the fan trim cover, which may be an eyesore. If you install the fan to a properly mounted junction box, and live in the US, this is unnecessary-just wrap the safety cable around the bracket when the fan motor is in place and let it sit in the upper trim cap.
All of the Fanimation fans have required a small socket wrench or a very short Phillips screwdriver to drive the screws to attach the upper trim cap once the motor is in place on the bracket. This will become apparent when you get to this step of the install. Not a big deal.
Overall, just take your time and follow the instructions, and all should go smoothly.
The LEDs on this model are 2700-2800K CREEs (CRI = ~80), and there is an uplight plus a downlight, with independent full-range dimming. I prefer a 3000-3500K color temperature, but right now, this is the only native LED-based light kit available from Fanimation. If you like warm, yellow light, this is for you. I tend to use only the uplight, as the indirect light off the ceiling (white) makes the color less yellow. Even though the uplight is above the blades, you do have to contend with the reflected light causing an indirect, less annoying (but still noticeable) strobe effect.
The remote that this fan uses is different from the remotes for DC Fanimation fans without an uplight. Make sure you follow the calibration instructions on the orange card and NOT the instruction guide, unless you do not receive an orange card. For our other fans, the main instruction booklet calibration instructions were different from that on the orange card (orange card instructions were much more straightforward than the instruction booklet, so they probably changed the logic at some point). I can't remember if the Landan came with an orange card.
You will need to re-calibrate every time you turn the power off to the fan, whether at the outlet/switch or breaker. This is true of ALL Fanimation fans-it's an important thing to keep in mind, as you can flip the switch off, turn it back on (without re-calibrating), use the remote, and all will seem fine, but then the fan may begin to turn itself on/off at random due to interference. Calibration is a simple thing (all on the remote), so this is a minor inconvenience if you accidentally flip the wall switch off. If you have more than one fan, make sure you set the dip switches to put each fan on its own channel (turn power off, flip dip switch, turn power on, re-calibrate, and you're done). You can, but may not want to control more than one fan with a single remote-YMMV, but be warned that this is not officially supported.
With respect to the quality of the finish on these fans-it's fine. It seems to be a powder coat rather than a true satin nickel plating, but the fan isn't advertised as having a plated finish, so fair enough. These are solidly constructed, smartly engineered fans. We would not have purchased four at a cost of ~$400 each if they had not continued to deliver and meet expectations.
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