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I have done a lot of research and got screwed on a couple orders from other companies and ended up with lights in a sleeve. This style is great.
Pros I found after a lot of research:
Changes color vs having to install 4 light strips total with 4 strips
New version of LEDs that has a better energy efficiency vs the old bulb style
-5050 SMD is 3x brighter with larger bulbs than 3528 SMD
-The controller runs off the 12volt side so it can hook up to boat, RV, 12v landscape lighting, etc, without the 120v power supply and have full functionality.
-Can cut/connect every 3rd LED but you have to add solder or use a connector as with most RGB (red green blue, to get all color options) 5050 strips. As usual it has solder joints every foot for soldering.
-Power could be on for days and not affect my two boat batteries. Only 2 amps for the whole strip! For comparison most lights in a car dome light are 3 to 3.5 amps. So If You just used one 5050 circuit (3 lights) You would be using dozens of times less power than one normal bulb. I made 4 of these smaller strips and put them in my boat courtesy light fixtures as well, which are separate from my gunwale lights.
-Cheap controllers and remotes can be found everywhere
-Universally found products I did not know about until tonight when I started looking; even music box regulators that change the lights to the music.
-12 Volts is safe
-power supply to test soldering as you go.
Cons:
Remote was spotty at a distance of 30 to 40 feet as expected, but I plan to mount the remote on velcro next to the sensor as a light-switch type setup.
FYI If you want multiple sections spliced together instead of one long strip and you don't want to solder the ends, the strip is 8mm wide for the size of "RGB LED strip connectors" you will need. I got a spare controller and remote kit encase the remote dies or goes in the water for about $6. I did see a controller from someone else with way more options on it for $7 and got that to see what options it has. It is much cooler overall, but all work fine.
You can solder the smaller joints at every third led (which is a 5050 circuit). I RECOMMEND flipping the strip over and use the 4 dots on on the back to solder cleaner and easier vs cutting up the waterproofing material on the front and soldering. Then put liquid electrical tape over the soldering and use hot glue or something to keep your solder joints rigid and from bending. Every 12 inches is a solder joint pre-made with 4 balls of solder for you pre-done, To solder to this cut back the front coating (I like to leave the plastic between each ball to separate the points well so just cut off the very top) and solder to the balls by slightly touching the ball to liquefy it as you push the wire in and you are done.. Youtube has a video how to solder 5050 smd lights if I did not make sense
AC1 stamp which means that the waterproofing material is Acrylic Acid Elasticitive Waterproof Coating. NOT a cheap plastic sleeve over cheap lights. Picture of the real cbconcept brand lights:
Real Specifications:
Long life span: 50,000+ hours
SMD type: 5050(Tri-chip);
LED Quantity: 150 LEDs/5 Meter
Brightness/m: 350 lumen;
Input volts: DC 12V;
Current: 2.0A
length: 5 meters(16.4Ft);
Thickness: 2mm; width: 8mm;
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