Customer Ratings: 
List Price: $75.50
Sale Price: Price Unavailable
Today's Bonus: 56% Off
After bypassing the ballasts in the light fixture, we put the LED tubes in. The light the cool-white LED tubes put out is beautiful. I may add a pair of warm white for a slightly warmer mix, but I'm rather happy with the intensity, and area coverage. These lights don't waste light in all directions like the old fluorescent tubes did, which makes it much easier on the eyes. The distance from the lights to the floor is 9 feet, so I can imagin the intensity would be even brighter in a 8 foot high installation. I'm amazed at the quality of light.
These things only sip 17 watts per tube, which means I'll be doing my bit in reducing my carbon footprint. :)
At 50,000 hours of lamp life, these things will be a lot cheaper by the time I have to replace them.
My only gripe is that they did not come with an instruction sheet for installation, but after inspecting the tubes, I found a tiny label which had the wiring diagram affixed to one end of the tube. Look for it, take a picture of the diagram, and print it out for use with installing the tubes.
If you can get over the cost of these tubes, it's well worth the admission price to enjoy great lighting at a reduced operating costs.
I was concerned about how these tubes would perform based on how led bulbs performed, but these really restore my faith in LED lighting.
UPDATE:
LED lighting tends to be a bit directional in nature, so if you'd like to spread the lighting more evenly across the room, just roll the outer tubes between 5 and 10 degrees toward the outside of the fixture, and you'll duplicate more closely the spread you were used to with the old flourescent, but you'll still enjoy much better quality of light. :)
Click Here For Most Helpful Customer Reviews >>
I replaced three T8 fluorescents in my home office with these. I started with just one to make sure they worked and that I would be happy with the light. Bottom line -they do and I am!
The light is great, brighter than the fluorescents and very consistent. They come on almost instantly to full power and at 17 watts they use less than half the power!
They definitely did take a little work to install and if you aren't comfortable cutting a wire then these aren't for you.
Along those lines, my only dissapointment was that the box didn't include any INSTRUCTIONS for installation and their web site was even less helpful -I posted a request for support asking for instructions and never have heard from them.
Ultimately it didn't matter though. I just cut out the ballast and reconnected the wires. The first one I did took about 10 minutes. The next two, took about 5 minutes each. It's good if you have a couple of wire nuts to join the wires back together safely.
So, if you are at all handy and want some really beautiful light (and a cool conversation piece too) then go for it!
Best Deals for Lighting EVER Brightest 20 Watt 4 foot T8 LED Tube Lights, 60W
I bought these lights partly because we're quite happy with another Lighting Ever LED fixture we installed and because of the good reviews here. Overall the wife and I are happy with them, but they were a bit tricky to get working. Here's a bit of additional information that may be helpful:
These tubes (at least the current ones, with the grey "Input" marking on one end) are single-ended tubes. A single-ended tube requires a hot line and a neutral line on the same end (and no connection on the other end). A dual-ended tube takes hot on one end and neutral on the other. My fixtures (similar to most fluorescent fixtures) are wired on both ends with shunted lampholders (the little tombstone-shaped plastic holders that the pins slide into and then turn). I had to order non-shunted lampholders (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00522MPTA) and reconfigure my fixture to get the tubes to work. It's unfortunate that Lighting Ever chose the single-ended configuration, in my opinion, since it complicates wiring for many of us. It also means that if you ever switch to dual-ended LED tubes you'll need to rewire again, otherwise you'll get a nice little explosion and a tripped breaker, since dual-ended tubes have the pins at each end wired together.) It's possible this is a recent change, since other reviews of this product and pointers to wiring diagrams seem to imply that the tubes used to be double-ended. (Here's a diagram of how to wire for different options: .)
The lights take about half a second to come on. They don't flicker on slowly like the old-style fluorescents in all my grade school buildings, but they're slower than incandescents or the rapid-start electronic ballast that we replaced. It's a bit odd to flip the switch and count a beat before the lights come on, but you get used to it. And once they're on they seem to be at full brightness. No warm-up period like fluorescents.
If you're not sure about color, go with the warm white. We sent the cool white ones back and got warm white, which is still not cozy warm like incandescents, but it's ok for our taste. The cool white color isn't as bad as in Joe vs. the Volcano, but it is rather blue.
All that aside, they work well and are a good deal for the price. I've been waiting 10 years for LEDs to become affordable and let us move beyond those unsufferable fluorescents, and it's finally starting to happen. It's good to be green.
Honest reviews on Lighting EVER Brightest 20 Watt 4 foot T8 LED Tube Lights, 60W
Materials and design
-----------------
The extruded aluminum 'tube' is nice and heavy, it gives the impression of being a good heat sink. The array of LEDs are surface mounted onto a long thin single sided PCB that slides into grooves in the aluminum extrusion. Internally the LED board is held a couple of mmoff the internal center surface of the heat sink so they're depending on the circuit boards edge touching the side of the heatsink/tube to conduct away the heat.
The big design problem is the mounting of the power supply. It is a 4" long PCB slid into the 'back' cavity of the tube with a pair of wires routed around the end of the extrusion and soldered to the LED PCB. The wires in one of my units were completely severed because there is nothing to hold the power supply boards from sliding back and forth in the tube, it was probably dropped in shipping at one point and the inertia of the power supply pulled hard enough to cleanly sever both DC supply wires against the sharp end of the extrusion. Worse one of the units made the usual 'click click click' sound of a shorted power supply when turned on, it turns out there is no insulation between the metal aluminum tube and the bottom of the power supply PCB, on this unit there was a little too much solder on some of the component leads and that solder was touching the metal case causing a short on the low voltage side. I stuck a piece of electrical tape over the bottom of the PCB and slid it back in to fix this problem. If you like excitement and decide to install these I would strongly recommend wearing insulated gloves in case any of the high voltage connections happen to touch the case.
I didn't see a UL mark on the units (AC can easily be in direct contact with the metal case and there is no provision to ground the case so they may have trouble getting an agency certification) and there is no indication of an agency certification anywhere on the packaging or docs. Perhaps they shipped me a different product than is listed on Amazon.
Installation
-------------
On the plus side a wiring diagram is included, two in fact, on the minus side neither of them could possibly work. As other reviewers have noted the actual unit is wired to receive power on the two pins on the same side of the tube despite the diagrams. On the fixture/ballast I rewired the tube connectors didn't allow for separate connection of the 2 pins on either side of the tube. If you have 'instant start, shunted' style ballast wiring expect some fun with a dremel or a trip to a h/w store to pick up a new set of unshunted connectors. Installation took way too long due to the plain wrong wiring diagrams included and the need to modify the connectors.
It is telling that the 'QA' sticker is stuck to the wiring diagram (used like tape to hold it wrapped around the unit) rather than the unit itself. The wiring diagram IS a nice looking piece of paper, though for some other unit.
Startup
--------------
The little switching power supply in each tube takes some time to start, less than 1 second for the 4 I installed. This is on par with other switching power supply driven LED's from other vendors.
Quality of light
--------------
The light quality is good and while they call it warm its as warm as any other 3800K LED's -so its not so warm compared to those 'warm' pink fluorescent tubes you can get. However its what I wanted for my utility room. The diffuser they include is appropriate and spreads the very directional light nicely, but not a whole lot. They work great in a fixture that has a diffuser over the tubes.
Summary
--------------
My main problem is the unspeakably poor integration/assembly of the units I received. I think due to the metal construction of the tube any shorts caused by the lack of insulation or mechanical support of the power supplies will likely cause a breaker to trip before actually causing a fire. I would never install one of these in a location where a person could touch the metal casing.
Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Lighting EVER Brightest 20 Watt 4 foot T8 LED Tube Lights, 60W
Read all the reviews. Seems like not all the product out there is the exact same. I ordered 2 tubes, and they came packaged nicely. With the warnings i read about on reviews here, i carefully examined the tubes i got. One end was CLEARLY labeled with an "L" and an "N" next to the two pins. I assumed those meant "Load" and "Neutral". Pulling the cap off i saw each pin had it's own wire, though i couldn't quite see where there were heading to. More importantly, taking the other end cap off, I saw there were absolutely no electrical connections to the pins. So therefore, the L & N must refer to Load (hot) and Neutral.
** Turn off power at service panel, and also at light switch. **
The rewiring the 2-tube fixture was pretty simple. I completely disconnected the ballast. Black wire (hot) connected to the side of one "tombstone" that was going to receive the "L" pin. The same side of that tombstone was connected by a short jumper to the other "tombstone" on the side that would receive the "L" pin of the other tube.
The white (neutral) wire got connected to the side of one tombstone that was going to receive the "N" pin, and a short jumper was used to connect that side of the tombstone to the side of the other tombstone that was going to receive the "N" pin from the 2nd tube.
L-to-L and N-to-N means the two tubes are connected in PARALLEL, which is the way they must be connected. Even the lousy included instructions mention that.
The color of the warm-white tubes are a very close match to the warm-white fluorescents we were using. They are somewhat brighter, using only 16W compared to the 32W of the fluorescents they are replacing.
I will be ordering 2 more to replace the other 2 bulbs in the same area.
