Cree LR6C 120V Neutral Color (3500K) Edison Base 6" Recessed Review

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List Price: $95.60
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Pros: Instant-on, dimmable to 20% with standard incan dimmers, full-spectrum color temperature, long-lasting, "active color management" ensures the color will not change as the LEDs age, 11 watt draw equals a 65-watt standard PAR38, fits in standard can housings easily.

In a high-use room, reduced electric bill will pay for the fixture in less than two years.

One final advantage is that the array of LEDs is hidden behind a glass diffuser. The few LED fixtures you'll find at Home Depot or Lowe's are all "naked" emitters, and to me that's an unnecessarily amateurish design flaw.

Cons: (1) Initial price. (2) Once you've done the highest-use rooms it's hard to stop on places where the payback might be longer. (3) There may be newer/better technology available in a year-plus (but not less than that). (4) Cree also sells a 2700 Kelvin fixture, the LR6. This is more like the yellow-biased light you have now. 3500K is whiter, cooler, more efficient -it works better in production areas like an office or a kitchen.

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I finally got around to beginning a long planned project of replacing incandescent can lights with these Cree LR6 LED lights. My first set was 2 lights in a hallway. The lights went in very easily into the existing fixtures. Two things about the CREE LR6C: this light is way brighter than the 75 watt bulb it replaced, and the color is a purer white. My wife objected to both, so I replaced those with the Cree LR6 which is a softer color (more yellow), but also produces way more light than the 75W. I loved the LR6C, and intend those for my study. I will be adding a dimmer in both cases. Next up, 5 more for the kitchen.

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I've installed 21 LR6 fixtures in a drop-ceiling last saturday and this product could be improved upon a little.

First off, theres nothing in the CREE can/mount assembly but three wires that end in a molded plastic plug (to connect to the lamp assembly).

1 for standard 2' ceiling tile, the arms on the CREE do NOT extend long enough on either side without hitting a stop screw.

I had to bend it out of the way to get it to fit. The rails were a combination of machined aluminum and stamped aluminum, with 4 mounting nails that were for some odd type of drop ceiling I'd never seen or we just dont use around here.

2 the LED assemblies are heavy from the needed heatsink, housing, electronics, diffuser, etc, and the three cheap swiveling pieces of 1/32nd sheet metal are flimsy enough to move when seating the lamp and it MAY COME LOOSE, having the lamp fall out, hanging by the connector. The "trick" is to extend the arms 120 degrees from each other (perfect "Y" and once you push up past the tile, TURN THE LAMP CLOCKWISE and DO NOT STOP. Even 1 millimeter counterclockwise and the lamp can fall out.

3 When seating the lamp, if placed tight, it lifts the ceiling tile off the drop frame. You need to reseat the lamp and start over. It was tricky until I'd just pushed gently turning clockwise, then release pressure to see if it is flush, push a tiny, tiny bit if needed by holding the top of the "can"

4 of the 2 dozen fixtures I installed, the ground wires in the plastic plugs of THREE units pushed right out when plugging in the lamp.

Still a good value, but new homes should be manufactured with low-voltage lighting instead of having all these electronics, transformers, rectifiers, and huge heat sink in EACH LUMINARE.

Side note: None have fallen out of the cafeteria serving area, and none failed yet (all 277 volt system, 2 on emergency lighting). We've put in about 100 of these so far, one did go bad giving a pink hue, which was warrantied.

There is a rebate for 25 units or less (per order). I didnt do the paperwork so I dont know if thats from the manufacturer, government, or utility. Was substantial. Save the barcode on the box bottom (not UPC) for the serial number.