Cheap LEDwholesalers 10 Watt LED Waterpoof Outdoor Security Floodlight 12

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I received two of these lights, all was in good order, or so I thought. I tried hooking the 12 volt lights up to a power supply, and nothing. I also tried a 12 volt battery, nothing. After dismantling the lights to see what made them tick, (they had 3 wires coming out, strange for 12v) I found a transformer/rectifier inside which converted 120vac to 12vdc. I removed it and all of it's wiring. I soldered on new wires, less transformer, and the lights work great!! as 12 volt lights. I'm using them on my boat. They would perform well as security lighting where 120 vac is available.

To me it was no big deal converting them, and I ended up with 2 nice little voltage converters.

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Edit note inserted 12/21/2012 photos are in the picture gallery now. 2 things to note there is a silver DC label on the back of my product, but not the factory photo, and #2 on the 1/12,000 sec F22 exposure of the leds the yellow surround is the glowing ceramic, the white arracy of 3x3 leds is the actual color 5000+ K temperature. I took photos of the cable and the positive negative color mapping to the blue and brown wires. I dismissed some of the EARLY (mayish) reviews on this product that aparently were shipped versions with an AC power supply. I am just getting to post some pics with the DC ONLY version (and you must never reverse the polarity brown is positive, blue is neative, the green/yellow wire is cut off i.e. they used a 110VAC line cord on the DC version most people expect red/black but red is brown and black is blue and ignore the ground wire you don't need it for low voltage (anything under 48VDC is technically low voltage, some people argue low voltage is 24VAC and below due to the sinewave peaks on AC). To date I have placed TWO orders now for 2 each units in each order. All were shipped fast, and all were identical. I'm getting my SLR camera out to post high quality pics of the REAL 12V (10-30 is their spec) version. Hint for you EE's out there you may want to insert an IDIOT DIODE (i'm sure its in google if you don't know but its a protective diode) in line so that brown is always positive with respect to blue no matter how they get wired in the field. A polarity reversal could kill the device and 0.6V drop across the diode forward biased times 1 amp nominal is 0.6 watts you can afford to loose that due to the tremendous light output and efficiency of the leds. A 24 volt *AC* supply could easily kill these and alot of alarm circuits use 24VAC as do doorbells etc.

Original review below:

In my first order I purchased two of these lamps. At work I do Mil 810 testing (different proceedures for different products e.g. testing a field radio vs an axel for a 2.5 ton truck) For and IP65+ rated product we normally do shock/vibe, voltage variation, negative 50 degrees C to positive 50deg C thermal operation, salt spray, and other tests. I am simply amazed at the QUALITY that went into the construction of these lampholders. We are starting tests today on a 24 hr run-in test to ensure there is not infant mortality. A full 810 test takes time and I will update as time permits. I will also get our forensic camera which is a very precise 1:1 imager, but useless on amazon's rescaled pictures as it takes massive photos that amazon downsizes my goal is just to take detailed photos that show off the workmanship in the lamp and I will upload a better set of photographs.

WHY I bought the 10-30V battery instead of 115 or 230VAC models: 10-30 V is ideal. it covers a dying 12VDC battery down past 11V AND at the same time it covers 2 ea 12V batteries in series for a 24-28VDC operation. What is nice about going to 30VDC is that on occasion you need to "equalize" lead acid cells this is easily done by turning the charge voltage up from 13.8 float to 14.5V (for a 12V battery of 6ea. 2V cells) This forces a 24VDC battery system to equalize charge by forcing a current through batteries that are almost full for a 24VDC system, equalization charging = 29.0VDC, still within the specs of this lamp! It's like a wide range AC input for DC.

In short, it covers all possible battery situations, from a run down 12VDC to a 24VDC on equalization charge, and everything inbetween. That's amazing. Few DC products have such a wide range most are 24-28VDC for mil 810.

People had commented that they ordered the 12V and got the 115VAC version instead. The case/cable is identical for both versions, however labels on the back clearly state the voltage, and another label on the cable clearly states the polarity of the brown and blue wires ( the green/yellow stripe ground lead was cut at the factory for low voltage systems) There is no doubt in looking at the labels that this is a DC product My hunch is the other reviewers may have been shipped the AC lamp by mistake its easy to do given they use the same case and cord.

One of the first tests I did was to use an agilent variable output supply to go from 10 30 volts. What I noticed is that the higher the voltage, the lower the current e.g. constant power operation. This implies some form of dc/dc converter is being used in te unit's brain/ballast section. It's another positive for the product as if you decide to run a 24-28 VDC solar system with 2 sets of 12V cells in a series/parallel configuration then the light will perform well for you with reduced current.

I will say as a nitpick, not a negative, as there is no 100% efficient voltage changer, that to get 10W to the led array it took 14W into the lamp cord. Now that 4W of inefficiency is including the loss in the 3 feet of cable and the dc/dc converter onboard to handle 10-30V inputs. I can live with a 4W loss, and I may plot conversion loss over a range of input voltages from 10-30 VDC later in testing to see where the lamp has minimal loss in dc/dc conversion. I fully expected some different power in for 10w power out the led and that is not a negative about the product in any way shape or form.

For now, all I can say is I'm REALLY IMPRESSED, these are going to be part of my emergency lighting system, and only using 0.8 Amps at 13VDC (one testpoint) means a 12vdc, 100AH battery will give many days of night time lighting, even with more than one lamp connected. That 1A or less switching opens up a vast number of relays that can handle 1A at 12V. I plan to build a simple emergency light using these indoors and out, an array of batteries, a contactor for the charger, and a 2nd drop out relay that energizes the lights when the AC dissappears. I will also use a timer in the circuit to ensure the lights are only on during desired times, and perhaps a second timer with an isolation diode to light one lamp just as a low power outdoor light as its often dark when I come home, and these are very weatherproof.

14W of electricity is 2x7W night lights. It's next to nothing. I could run one of these lamps every night at night or a selected time period of 8 hr or so and not see any increase in my energy bill. I could even get enough charge from a solar array to power these highly efficient led lamps.

Lastly, let me just say THEY ARE BRIGHT NEVER look directly at the led emitter without welding goggles. ONE lamp puts out conservatively the equivalent of a 300W halogen tube. The light temperature is well over 5000K probably 6500K

Feel free to lookup my email if you have questions, and I will get the forensic 1:1 camera to post some images later today.

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I bought mine for $25 on Ebay..with free shipping. But it is a nice, bright and easy to install light. Puts out an intense bright white light. Adjustable bracket mount. NO instruction so you have to experiment to find which of the 3 wires to connect to. (Chinese made and not the usual red/black/brown colored wires here).

I have 2 of these installed in a remote carport, with a single AGM 12V battery connected to a small solar panel...run them a few hours each night...hardly any drawdown on the 134AH battery..these things are only 10 watts each. They put out harsh light...but keeps folks away from my carport so far.

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Purchased this lamp around May 10 2012 installed two of them shortly after I received them. Was very impressed with the lamp and have been very happy with them until one of them stopped working. I assume the LED went bad. I use them to light up my home every night. They are on a timer and run approx. 6 hours a night. Approx. 250-300 hours of use and now one has went bad. The other is working fine as of last night. I plan on giving them another chance, so I ordered two more today June 27th 2012. I am going to replace the one that went bad. I figure they should be good for at least 30000 hours. If I continue to have them go bad, I will repost an updated comment. Let's see what happens.

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I bought this light a couple of months ago and I tested it out by touching the wires to a battery and it lit up!

But, I just wired it with the landscaping 12volt wire that Home Depot sells. It's the 16/2 wire.

I'll be a son of a gun! This light is amazing! I put it on my front porch and it illuminates at least 60 feet in all directions. I can still tilt it some more and get more distance.

The light is a really lovely white light too. I've never seen a bright white led before so maybe I'm overly excited but I am very excited to have this light on my porch.

I'm going to buy a little solar panel to charge a couple of batteries and add as many of these lights, and maybe other led 12 volt lights as I can! I'm lovin' this light!!!